Away from the hustle and bustle yet only a 10-minute walk from Casa-Port train station, this very pleasant indoor-outdoor restaurant is a great place to eat and drink at any time of day or night. It’s set within the walls of an 18th-century fortification, or sqala, and is part of a small complex that includes a boutique — a satellite shop to Stéphanie Bénetère’s Kif Kif in Marrakech — and a gallery housing temporary art exhibitions and fashion shows.
The outdoor section is where you want to be — mosaic tables, wrought-iron chairs, large linen umbrellas, and plenty of shade under a large trellis covered with bougainvillea. The menu is extensive and begins with a choice of breakfasts that are large enough to fill you for the whole day; the F’tor Sqala includes traditional breads, poached eggs, jams and amlou (argan spread), and freshly squeezed orange juice and tea or coffee. Dishes from midday onward include a delicious Kémia Mauresque salad of zaalouk (pulped aubergine/eggplant), choukchouka (finely chopped peppers, cucumber, tomato), artichoke, olives, haricot beans, and tomato.
More substantial dishes include a lotte et gambas (burbot and shrimp) tagine cooked in saffron. There’s also a range of desserts and gâteaux, which can be enjoyed with a coffee, tea, or delicious fruit cocktail. The waitstaff are young and friendly, and the clientele range from businesspeople to travelers to city 20-somethings.